A Non-Influencer’s Week in Paris
You might (as I have) ask yourself, “does the world really need another travel blog for Paris?” And the answer is no, it does not. But I couldn’t help but feel, as I researched for our own trip, that there is maybe a gap in the market.
What if you’re not hot and cool and determined to find the most picturesque corners of the city to capture beautiful photos of yourself? What if you’re not backpacking through Europe, trying to wring as much fun as you can out of as little money as possible? What if you’re just a normal person and this is your vacation for the year, and you’d like to have a really special, slightly splurge-y time without feeling like you’re working through a FOMO checklist that doesn’t leave you with more than 10 minutes of downtime a day?
In that case, you might be in the right spot.
Montmartre, Paris
I was always a bit intimidated at the thought of Paris - the glamour! the fashion! the scowling locals! I built it into an intimidating specter only to arrive and think, “oh, how lovely. I should have come sooner.”
My goals for this trip were: good food, lots of art, and ease. The size of the city makes this simpler in some ways: we were never going to be able to see all the must-sees, so I could relax into what felt right for us. I reached out to Chelsea Fagan of The Financial Diet for recommendations, which I used to create a map of the city so we would have good food and drinks close at hand anywhere we found ourselves (see the end of the post for that map).
Where we stayed:
We stayed at Hotel Oratio in the Latin Quarter, and it was charming and stylish. This section of the city wasn’t the most ideal for the itinerary we ended up with, but it was relatively affordable and around the corner from a convenient metro stop and a truly excellent bakery. The rooms are, of course, tiny! No matter, you won’t be there much anyway. But if, like us, you realize there’s not even enough floor space for your empty bags when you unpack, the hotel was kind enough to store our empty suitcases for the week.
Other hotels I considered:
These are all in le Marais, which is a very chic area tucked a bit away from the most bustling tourist spots but still accessible:
Hôtel National des Arts & Métiers: I loved the slightly masculine, creative-class look of the rooms
Pavillon de la Reine: pricey and luxe, the interiors of this hotel are unique, and in a great location
Le Beau Marais: this apartment-style accommodation was my top pick but wasn’t available. Each suite has so much personality!
Hotel Charles V: this was on a bunch of high-end travel recommendation lists but was surprisingly affordable. The aesthetic is restrained and classic.
For future trips, based on what we loved about the city, I will probably try to stay closer to the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area and start my search for hotels with the Travel + Leisure guide to the neighborhood.
taking in the view from Basilique du Sacré-Cœur
Learning to make croissants
What to Do
As I read blogs and recommended itineraries, I felt overwhelmed by the sense that I couldn’t do every must-see item on the lists. I had a much better time when I relaxed into that reality and chose the things best suited to our tastes. Most travel lists will include the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre, but guess what? We didn’t do either of those, and I have no regrets. The view of the tower from the ground was sufficient for us, and we chose a different museum for our Big Museum Day.
No need to go up, but you must walk by!
We fell in love with the metro system almost immediately. Do not visit Paris and spend your whole time in Ubers!
Here’s what we did and loved the most:
A croissant-making class: we booked this class with some friends, and it was a delightfully-paced afternoon activity in a beautiful space. The classes are small, so it had an intimate, homey feeling. You may even almost convince yourself that you’ll try to make croissants at home. You’ll come out of class with a few treats; we toted ours around through dinner and drinks and nibbled on them late at night as we walked back to our hotel. Sublime.
Our friends Victoria and Lucas in class
Are these not the most gorgeous baked goods you’ve ever seen?
Musée d'Orsay: I am a museum girlie through and through, and this is my favorite museum I’ve ever visited. Housed in a former Beaux Arts train station, it’s atmospherically perfect and home to a truly remarkable collection of impressionist art. Don’t go on a Tuesday - that’s the day the Louvre is closed, and it will be packed.
This trip introduced me to the artist Odilon Redon; the room with many of his large pieces was my surprise favorite
A day trip to Giverny: Our few hours here were enchanting. We booked a Get Your Guide tour, which drove us there and back and provided tickets and time to explore on our own. Though we got a great art history lesson on the bus, I wish I’d figured out our own transit, because I would have liked to spend more time wandering. The gardens were magnificent in late May; they’re kept up using Monet’s records. The house is an inspiring lesson in color and pattern. The waterlily pond is smaller than I expected, and more intimate. Frankly, I wanted to move in:
Musée de l'Orangerie: After you’ve visited Monet’s home in Giverny to immerse yourself in his world, I highly recommend a quick stop here. Late in his life, Monet personally consulted on the design of the space and painted massive pieces specifically for these gently curving walls, and the effect is stunning. Letting some of his water lily pieces fill my entire field of vision for a few minutes was a dream. (You may have guessed by now that I love Monet.)
A bike tour of Versailles: Despite being an interior designer, I don’t tend to love touring fancy old buildings, but this tour surprised me in the best way. In town, our group got time to shop at the local market for our picnic lunches, which we packed up and later ate on the banks of the Grand Canal. Tours of the grounds and then the palace were effortlessly woven into this perfect day trip. It took us further into the property than we ever would have ventured on foot. (Here’s the same tour on Airbnb if that’s easier for you.)
Wander: we spent our first jetlag day on foot through the le Marais district, which was not a particularly efficient way to spend the day, but it is dreamy to remember: we checked out Pompidou (architecturally significant!) and sleepily wandered between small parks. We ended up in Jardin Anne Frank for a few hours, where we sat in the shade and watched life happen: dance students practicing, a child’s birthday party, a couple enjoying a picnic lunch. On our way back to our hotel, we visited a few shops and Notre Dame.
This is not to say I recommend that particular itinerary, just that it would be a lovely idea to leave space in your schedule unplanned to sit for awhile and observe. We had equally nice times passing a few hours with friends around the Jardin du Luxembourg and around Montmartre after we hiked to the tippy top of Basilique du Sacré-Cœur.
Basilique du Sacré-Cœur
Duck into every park you can find: you never know what might be blooming
Where to Eat
It almost seems silly to recommend restaurants in Paris, but here are the ones we loved:
Breizh Cafe: specializing in buckwheat crepes and other Briton specialties with several locations in Paris, this was a great stop for lunch.
L'avant-Comptoir Du Marché: I think this was my single favorite meal in Paris. This extremely chic tapas-style small plates restaurant specializes in pork dishes and charcuterie. As a bonus, it’s right around the corner from…
Prescription: this excellent cocktail lounge has a speakeasy vibe and feels elevated without being pretentious
L'avant-Comptoir Du Marché
Bouillon Pigalle: there will be a wait, but it’s for a reason, and the reason is hearty, delicious, and extremely afford
Relais Louis XIII: This Michelin-starred restaurant is expensive, but worth it. Get dressed up and enjoy the tasting menu and some great wine. It’s pretentious and untouched by social media starlets in the best way.
Au Pied de Fouet: A simple restaurant with a restrained but wonderfully executed menu; if you’re in the area (the 7th - about a 15 minute walk from Musée d’Orsay and just around the corner from Napoleon’s Tomb and Musée Rodin), you must try it. I still think about the dish I got: lentils with salmon
Relais Louis XIII
Au Pied de Fouet
Maison d'Isabelle: This bakery was right around the corner from our hotel and handily located next to our most frequently used metro stop, so we naturally made several visits. As you can see in the photo below, in 2018 they won first place in the regional croissant competition. Everything we tried was excellent
Normally this is the part of the post where I share the restaurants that were on my short list but we didn’t get the chance to visit. But given that this is Paris and the options are overwhelming, I thought I would share my custom map.
This map has layers for a few choice museums and shops; cultural sites; and food, which has been split by type: restaurants, bars/wine, and breakfast/bakeries. Chelsea Fagan’s recommendations are on their own layers, and for what it’s worth, I would recommend preferencing her layers if you’re indecisive — every one we tried was a total hit.
I hope you have the loveliest time in Paris. When you return, please come back here and let me know what you liked the best.
